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The lowest point was a dainty Sin-Soviet work ballet featuring maiden tea pickers.
First, I followed the tea pickers — mostly ethnic Nepali women — into the fields, where they spent all morning and all afternoon moving across the steep slopes like mountain goats, with bamboo baskets on their backs.
Teenage girls are the most sought-after tea pickers — their fingers move more quickly, local residents say — and they can harvest as much as 110 pounds of tea leaves a day.
Unlike those workers, who live in smog-choked cities with blackened, polluted waterways, the tea pickers here work among trees that overlook a pristine mountain range that would not look out of place in a Chinese scroll painting.
Fair Trade tea company, Bhakti Chai, invests in female tea pickers in India who belong to the Self-Employed Women's Association and give 90percentt of earnings back to their families and communities so that their daughters can receive an education.
Over time, dependents of the tea pickers have come to live on the estates.
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Zha Ge, 19, a tea picker who like the other villagers is Lahu, a small ethnic minority here, said he had never met a foreigner before.
The daily salary for a tea picker is the equivalent of $3 a day, provided they pick 29 kg (64 lbs) of fresh, young tealeaves.
A 35-year-old tea picker in Alipurduar, India, is getting tailed by followers every day -- mainly because the 14.5-inch tail growing out of his back makes them think he's a living god.
But only recently have the profits started rolling in for the wild-tea pickers, who have divided forests of tea trees along ancestral lines and are increasingly selling to larger concerns.
A tea-picker in Assam might earn a measly 40 rupees a day (less than $1), plus some food and lodging.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com