Norwegian fish farms are especially renowned for the production of Atlantic cod, Atlantic halibut, and spotted wolffish.
The point of the boosterish guide was to convince American consumers of the delectableness of fish like the wolffish, an enormous creature with a bulbous head, big teeth, and an eel-like body.
Apparently, she was so persuasive — and bottom trawling so wrecked its habitat — that the wolffish is now considered a threatened species.
After the collapse of so many freshwater fish, migratory fish, oceanic fish, and groundfish, like the wolffish, it might seem that we've finally reached the end of the line.
As skyronnaise, with fresh wolffish in spelt barley at the harbour-front Icelandic Fish and Chips restaurant.
Icelandic tannery, Atlantic Leather is taking perch, salmon, wolffish and cod skin, a by-product of the fisheries industry and turning it into leather for luxury fashion.
Besides that darne of salmon, he turns out a wonderful saute of pistachio-crusted wolffish, and his diver scallops -- the biggest I've ever seen -- are coated with panko breadcrumbs and perfectly grilled.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Peekytoe crab salad; seafood salad; buffalo carpaccio; baby vegetable salad; darne of salmon; wolffish; diver scallops; grilled portobello mushroom; beef tenderloin; hot chocolate cake; sour-cherry crisp; banana tower.
*1 whole loup de mer (aka "wolffish"), or striped bass, or 4 smaller whole fish called branzini, available from Wild Edibles, Grand Central Terminal.
A specialty is the poached wolffish (loup de mer) in a sauce of cockles and crawfish.
It's possible to forgive almost anything of a chef who uses ramps, the gamy spring onions of the Eastern Seaboard, and they turn up in at least two entrees every night in spring -- the wolffish and a grilled beef tenderloin, in a dark and satisfying sauce of caramelized radicchio.
