Victor LaPlaca, a native of Sicily and long an associate of Todd English, is running the kitchen, which is turning out raw snapper with cantaloupe, hamachi with salsa verde, yellow corn agnolotti with chanterelles, and salt-crusted branzino with sautéed wild nettles.
Definitely try the enchiladas: our selection was filled with tender chicken, blanketed with salsa verde, and topped with Mexican cheese.
As he finished a banana-leaf-wrapped tamal filled with mole verde, fragrant with the herb hoja santa, he noticed my perplexed look as I watched Ms. Pastelin fill a roll with an unwrapped tamal to construct a sort of corn sandwich.
WHAT WE LIKED Arugula and cantaloupe salad, Mediterranean plate, lobster pizzette, pork belly with watermelon salad, daily salad special, rock shrimp and scallop salad, ravioli with spinach; sea scallops with risotto, chicken breast with salsa verde, cod wrapped in banana leaf, wahoo over couscous; lavender crème brûlée, chocolate chip cookies with ice cream, chocolate terrine.
Chicken enchiladas with a verde sauce, go with a crisp white, like Albarino from Spain; beef enchiladas with red sauce, a juicy red Zinfandel.
The cooks, who hail from Puebla and Oaxaca, are nimble with the standards: gently stuffed tacos ($7 to $9), taquitos dorados striped with salsa verde ($4 to $5), grilled corn with a slap of mayo and a sift of chili powder ($4).
Yet, on the way back from the Lake District, when we rewarded our children for tolerating our recherche du temps perdu with a visit to the huge amusement park called Alton Towers, the meals on offer along the byways of the English Midlands included chicken tikka masala with fries, lasagne verde with fries and pizza Margherita with -- yes -- fries.
They discussed the recipes we selected from the book — a fragrant onion tart and asparagus with salsa verde and scarlet onions — with Ms. Moskin and Ms. Madison.
(Stuart had seared sea bass on sautéed leeks with salsa verde, I ate monkfish with honey and ginger and the kids had pizza).
