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On the cashier's recommendation, I pair a taco de bistec (charbroiled steak) with a queso de cazuela (a heavenly cheese baked in tomato sauce).
Another evening we began with a queso dip (Monterey jack and Cheddar cheeses with chipotle for a nippy bite), served with crisp flour tortilla ribbons; grilled shrimp (piping hot and not overcooked); and tangy hummus with a black bean relish, all of which did the job of perking up our appetites.
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Pass the tortillas, top with the fish and spinach mixture, sprinkle with a little queso fresco if desired, fold the tortillas over the filling and enjoy.
She thickens the mixture with a silken queso blanco, or white cheese, that turns out to be low-salt French feta bought from a Turkish supplier in Union City.
Don't forget to pair any of these wings with crudités like celery and carrots for a healthy side dish (unless you're feeling like indulging, in which case try pairing wings with a gooey queso dip!).
We were less taken with a starter of queso fundido, a fondue of five cheeses, green chilies and tomatillo that was inexplicably bland.
It's grilled to a crisp, smothered in a deep red chile sauce and topped with a sprinkle of queso fresco and cilantro.
We were especially taken with the queso fundido, a molten mass of baked Chihuahua cheese with chilies, chorizo, cilantro and white onion.
Less interesting appetizers included ripe avocados filled with not enough shrimp and unremarkable scallops and a kind of deconstructed salad of cold sliced potatoes, black botija olives and hard-boiled eggs, with a yellow pepper-queso fresco sauce.
Grilled quesadilla (simple): Fill a flour tortilla with queso fresco, Monterey Jack or Cheddar; add chicken, shrimp and/or tomato.
The heavenly bodies include duck tacos in a cream sauce spiked with habanero peppers and a cactus torta loaded up with queso fresco and pico de gallo.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com