But he's a wow with the lighter things in life, too: sodas flavoured with wild things, dishes scented with lovage or elderberry, or scattered with woodruff, sea buckthorn or fluffy, sharp Crowdie cheese.
Reed, he of the venerable Velvet Underground and best known for the counterculture anthem "Walk On The Wild Side," dishes out spoken poetry for most of the record, which, believe it or not, is a good thing: as a vocalist, Reed makes Bob Dylan sound like Freddie Mercury.
Writer tells about her popular wild duck dish..
Writer tells about her popular wild duck dish.
And for that "wild pig" dish alone it is -- as the guidebooks say -- "worth a detour".
Of the entrees we tried, the standout was not a wild boar dish but a filet mignon served in a shallow pool of Gorgonzola sauce.
It has a Sunday menu of fresh oysters, beef tartare and wild Baltic salmon; dishes from 25 PLN (£5).
Charles Avison Building, 33 New Bridge Street West, NE1 8AX, 0191 277 1246 stewartandcofinefood.co.uk Distrikt Leeds Serving modern tapas plus foraged dishes (wild mushrooms, wood sorrel, sea purslane) this is a cafe by day and busy music venue by night.
Of several tasty pasta dishes, wild mushroom ravioli was a standout, served with fresh al dente asparagus, roasted red peppers, sage and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Shrimp fra diavolo (in a spicy red sauce served over linguine) was another spirited choice.
Then they went back to the kitchen and cooked as if it was their last meal, crowding the menu with wild combinations of dishes they'd want to eat — tripe and sweetbreads, headcheese and flavor-packed culinary mashups like a Korean-style burrito.
