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Here's another, more urbane, no less fantastic: a dinner table cloaked in old checked cloth, underneath a wide platter of pasta in red sauce flecked with basil, a bowl of crabs beside it.
Hors d'oeuvres included a beautiful torchon of foie gras encased in brioche as well as truffled egg custard with salt cod and caviar, and a sphere of quail egg topped with anchovy, red onion, tarragon, chervil and a strand of lemon zest, the lot of them served on a wide platter meant to evoke the grand-buffet style that Escoffier developed along with his own Nick Kokonas, the hotelier César Ritz.
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Mariscada and paella, those old reliables, struck me as more or less the same dish: vast schools of seafood adrift on wide platters.
Wide platters come stacked with various local catches including Sea Bream, Black Bream, Scorpion Fish and Monkfish garnished with bright langoustines.
The phiale, a foot-wide platter inscribed in Greek, dates from the fifth century B.C., when Sicily was ruled by Greece.
Gerard O'Brien, owner of the Reform Gallery in Los Angeles, which sells the Heinos' pieces, called the potter's work "hearty and gutsy" and "ruggedly American". Still actively producing work for museums, international collectors and his home gallery until his death, Heino could throw 100-pound mounds of clay into 24-inch-wide platters.
Line a platter or wide bowl with the lettuce leaves, top with the salad, sprinkle on the crumbled cheese and serve.
4. Place the squash in the middle of a wide bowl or serving platter, surround with the lentil salad and serve.
The fish, as wide as a serving platter, is typically served covered by flatbread and accompanied by salads, yogurt with cucumber, and pickled fruits and vegetables in a mustard sauce.
4. Assemble the salad: Either add the remaining ingredients to the salad bowl and toss with the remaining dressing, or toss the salad greens and remaining herbs with the remaining dressing, and pile onto a platter or wide salad bowl.
Line a platter or a wide bowl with the spinach.
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