MAYBE cold pasta makes you think of some mediocre quasi-Italian grab-and-go deli choice in a plastic clamshell.
By Anthony Lane You can tell what a fine movie "The Station Agent" is from some of the noble institutions that are thanked in the final credits: Barry's Luncheonette, Good-to-Go Deli, and the inspiring Lunacy Beer.
"If you wanted to buy deli, you went to a deli shop; if you wanted to buy nuts, you went to a candy shop," said Bentzy Klein, owner of Bentzy's Brokerage, a nut and dried fruit supplier in Borough Park, Brooklyn.
From age 11, he remembers sitting in the back of the shop, styling wigs and going on deli runs for customers.
I went to the deli and the street was quiet.
"I went into a deli," Mr. Harada explained.
When you went into a deli 10 years ago, you weren't confronted with 200 beers.
"Each place I went to, the deli had been strongly influenced by the community it existed in," he says.
So I went to the deli counter in the back, and with great skepticism, ordered a breakfast burrito.
In the mornings she went to a deli and bought a baguette and little containers of things Dev liked to eat, like pickled herring and potato salad.
