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Model equations are transformed to a planar dynamical system using a traveling wave transformation.
We have transformed the model equations into a planar dynamical system using a traveling wave transformation.
Wave transformation by axisymmetric 3-dimensional bathymetric anomalies with gradual transitions in depth.
A part of the DELOS research focused on wave transformation at low-crested structures, called LCS.
Recently, the high-level Green Naghdi equations have been applied to some wave transformation problems.
This study examines the implementation and validity of phase-averaged spectral models in describing wave transformation over fringing reefs.
The influence of the mechanical properties of porous structures and wave irregularity on wave transformation is analysed.
This represents a broad system, in coastal modelling terms, comprising shore platform, beach, tidal range, wave transformation, cliff and talus.
For this purpose, a characteristic friction diagram was obtained to evaluate the wave transformation inside the porous medium.
Model tests are used to evaluate the effects of cross-reef pit location and width on wave transformation.
The wave transformation model is validated by comparison with measured nearshore directional wave spectra in 13 m water depth.
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