Exact(1)
Here's what you do: Move faster toward the shoulder section (the part just outside the breaking section of the face) of the wave, picking a point where you'll get enough time to start a rounded slow turn.
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The wave picks up your board and flies you through the water.
When a wave picks it up, we have to pull left quickly, to avoid a crash into cliff face.
The researchers have gotten a wave to propagate across a robot's body; that wave picks up the feet in a way that already resembles the foot motion of a real caterpillar.
Ten yards from shore, Alvarenga dove into the water, then paddled "like a turtle" until a large wave picked him up and tossed him high on the beach, like driftwood.
As the polite applause slowly died down, a second wave picked up with forceful sincerity.
His first release, In Light, was something of a drone-soaked homage to weird German proto-electronica like Kraftwerk and Tangerine Dream, and his second release, Soft Wave, picked up more melodic tendencies and pop contours.
Another fun way is when the wave picks you up, to try to keep your self straight with you're arms out in front of you, the wave will carry you really fast but you won't be able to steer.
"This may be waves picking up.
Detection of earthquakes occurring within early lapse times (within a few hours in general) after a large event is generally very difficult because waveforms of many earthquakes occurring within a short time interval tend to overlap in seismograms, and conventional detection techniques using P- and/or S-wave picking become unavailable.
The wind and waves picked up.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com