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We ate a perfect veal carpaccio, warm octopus salad, still wriggling, and scampi simply split and char-grilled.
The appetizers, like peppered tuna carpaccio with avocado, lemon and roasted Bermuda onion; and warm octopus salad with roasted peppers and peppercress, are all excellent.
Other starters include a warm octopus salad ($6.50) in which bits of rich and chewy meat are mixed with moist croutons, tangy olives and the soft give of roasted potatoes.
This chic wine bar and restaurant serves tapas dishes such as warm octopus salad and homemade empanadas for around $7. Meantime Union League Café nearby (1032 Chapel Street; 00 1 203 562 4299; unionleaguecafe.com) is an established gourmet favourite offering contemporary French dishes in an elegant bistro setting.
Don't miss warm octopus with Spanish paprika and silken Yukon gold puree; spicy chorizo wrapped in a crisp potato chip; Moorish-spiced lamb skewer; patatas bravas (a must-have) and Spanish tortilla (a classic potato-and-onion omelet).
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Olive oil and seawater meet again, this time as a dressing flavored with red onions and yellow pear tomatoes poured over warm charred octopus.
For a memorable meal of hearty tapas, try the warm boiled octopus, steamed mussels or other specialties from northern Galicia at rustic Maceiras tavern (Huertas, 66; 34-91-429-5818).
Other dishes that we would order again included appetizers like a goblet of glossy warmed pulpo (octopus) and olives; baked rollatini, the mellow eggplant wrapper oozing ricotta and creamy spinach; a thin soft tortilla capturing duck, onions, peppers and runny mozzarella; and skewers of shrimp, beef and chicken alongside baby greens.
"I'm so excited -- there's something great about pairing warm, freshly burnt octopus with that cool, refreshing watermelon".
But my favorite, a special one night, was a simple warm dish of octopus bathed in garlic, olive oil and white balsamic vinegar on a bed of impossibly tiny arugula.
Warm discs of octopus tentacle have a satisfying bite and a clean smokiness that I have not tasted since I was Greek island-hopping in the 1980s, when barbecue fish restaurants clustered along the harbour sides.
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