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More Roles for Veal Philip Michael's, the Bronx company that introduced veal pastrami last year, has added veal bacon and smoked veal ribs to its line.
The big, meaty, richly flavored but slightly chewy veal ribs are $4.60 a pound and can be reheated in the oven.
The contradictions show up in ways both playful — yin-and-yang yarmulkes, kiddush cups disguised as papier-mâché dragons, kosher lo mein and veal ribs at the buffet — and profound.
Among the entrees are veal ribs stewed in a tomato sauce with sweet green peas, grilled rack of lamb topped with a fresh mint sauce and served with roasted potatoes, and skirt steak marinated in Sicilian herbs.
At Bestia, chef Ori Menashe's cassoeula is no less austere: pork ribs, veal ribs and sausage presented in a crock of strong broth; meat simmered almost to gelatin, greens cooked to the point where they tear at the touch of a fork.
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Della Femina charges $44 for its veal rib chop.
The veal rib chop is served Milanese style, with arugula and onions tempered by fresh mozzarella.
These are better choices than the big fried veal rib chops that can be underdone and fatty.
VEAL-CHOP MILANESE Partly separate the meat from the bone of 4 veal rib chops, each 3/4 inches thick.
A monstrous veal rib emerges from the fires nicely seared and remarkably juicy (though you have to season it), along with roasted onions, yellow squash and zucchini.
He puts crushed Alba hazelnuts, sautéed in butter, on top of braised veal cheeks, which accompany a hunk of roasted veal rib-eye.
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