Or Clerkenwell's Chifafa which avoids foam cartons and features ingredients such as high-welfare English veal.
First, the cook must rustle up the stuffing – a byzantine combination of, among other things, breadcrumbs, veal, pork, butter, caraway seeds, poppy seeds, apples, orange, crushed tinned pineapple and preserved ginger – and sew it carefully into the bird, which is then browned in a very hot oven.
Bocuse is a great dinner companion – he told me of learning his trade as a young lad during the Occupation, how he was taught to kill pigs and veal calves, and later when he joined the Resistance, how he tried to kill Germans.
Cut the veal into thin slices and lay them on a platter.
Add the diced veal, vegetables and sage to the pot, turn up the heat a little and toss around until softened.
More cause for rejoicing for us retro freaks: venerable Sam's Grill has just reopened for veal cutlets Milanese and charbroiled sweetbreads with bacon.
Beef, veal and pork are mixed with egg, canned milk, oatmeal and spices.
Cow (beef and veal) was top of the menu in the early 1960s, accounting for 40% of meat consumption, but by 2007 its share had fallen to 23%.
Donatz, who has 14 GaultMillau stars, is known for his straightforward meat dishes – try his signature veal cotelet "Jacky Spezial" and his Siedfleisch (steamed meat) specialty "Jacky".
Salad with Kamchatka crabs, Olivier salad, wholly-grilled sterlet, salmon, starred sturgeon, herring, jellied meat, tongue meat dish, salted mushrooms, egg-plant caviar, vegetables, pancakes with black and red caviar, back of young veal, berry pies, cakes, and home-made charlotte were served for the dinner.
For the more carnivorous, the veal with sweetbreads must be tried at all costs.
