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For more than two decades, 30,000 poor farmers there have campaigned for environmental justice against the Chevron corporation, which they accuse of polluting vast stretches of their territory.
The route from central Delhi to Bishara passes first over the heavily polluted Yamuna river, past a vast new temple and a metro station and on to a recently built expressway slicing through the city's sprawl.
When most people think about the Middle East, they often think of vast uninhabited deserts dotted with oil and gas equipment, polluted cities, dusty villages, and herds of sheep and camels milling about on rocky hillsides.
Instead of the vast and unique freshwater world, all that remained was an arid, polluted, dried-out wilderness where reeds did not grow, no one lived and nothing was farmed.
Responsibility lies overwhelmingly with industrialised countries, which have polluted their way to wealth and power and are responsible for the vast bulk of emissions in the atmosphere.
They warned that the dam's vast reservoir, which would submerge the homes of more than 1m people, would become polluted and alter the flow and ecology of the Yangzi river.
Jellyfish can survive in waters polluted by runoff and oil spills, adapt well to new environments, and have bloomed in such vast numbers in recent years that they have stopped ships and shut down nuclear plants.
They just polluted elsewhere.
But the atmosphere of this nervous peninsula has already been polluted by hateful rhetoric reminiscent of that used in the nineteen-nineties, when the dissolution of the Soviet Union unleashed pent-up ethnic tension across its vast territories.
