Most recipes I try use tinned tomatoes as the base – indeed, Thomson and Slater add little else.
The problem, she said, is that the cases take too long to try, use up resources, are difficult to win and seldom result in executions.
Both the recipes I try use equal parts wheat and alternative flours, presumably because, as Conran observes, even with this mixture "they are not as light as pancakes made with white flour".
Pork fat is a traditional part of many such recipes, though only two of the ones I try use it, in the form of smoked bacon, both in relatively small quantities that seem designed more to add flavour and fat than actual meat.
All the tarts I try use shortcrust, and, to be honest, shortcrust is always delicious, whether it's savoury and ultra-crumbly, as in Peyraud's recipe, which utilises the same free-form shell as she deploys for a pissaladière (Niçoise onion and anchovy tart) or a rich, sweet egg-yolk spiked variety like Slater suggests.
Traditionally, this means oats, which all the recipes I try use, but pulses are also popular, with chef Graham Campbell, the Vegetarian Society, Edinburgh restaurant Henderson's and Veg Web all using lentils of various colours, and food writer Carl Legge plumping for yellow split peas.
