Despite its odd, intramural name, the restaurant is devoted entirely to the cooking of Hunan, the small interior province of China that was the birthplace of Mao Zedong.
More rarely, the restaurant is devoted to Quenioux's remarkable cassoulet, a glorious Southwestern French dish of Tarbais beans, preserved lamb, garlic sausage and duck confit, served in a huge copper pot.
So the pair import specialty items from Japan (fresh wasabi, konjac noodles, dried seaweed); the front portion of their restaurant is devoted to retail space.
Even when it was prepared for me this past fall in Galicia, where entire restaurants are devoted to octopus — pulpo in Spanish — the chef began with frozen octopus.
In Thailand, a curried noodle soup called kao soy (also khao soi) is the signature dish of the northern city Chiang Mai, where entire restaurants are devoted to its production.
PIG TAILS After the headcheese revival of the aughts and the pig's trotters craze of 2011, only one part of the animal remained to be discovered: the rich, bony and gelatinous tail (except for some deeply interior bits like the pig's vocal cords and cervix, to which entire restaurants are devoted in Japan).
This restaurant, which is devoted to the seafood-based cuisine of Veracruz, has a featured cocktail that incorporates rosé into sangria.
The Restaurant Takeaway column is devoted to restaurant dishes you can make in your own kitchen, tweaked for home cooks.
The Restaurant Takeaway column is devoted to restaurant dishes you can make in your own kitchen, tested and tweaked for home cooks.
I too gave it a wide berth because this column is devoted to value dining: restaurants with gifted chefs, modest prices and often marvelous food, not pricey-trendy venues.
