Nevertheless, special care must be taken when restoring these spaces in order to respect the identity and the aesthetic appeal of the ancient cellars and not to come into conflict with the planning and building regulations.
The culatello they will become is aged in an ancient cellar, an intensely piggy, musty place with mouldering walls and river mists.
But besides the Steven Tyler paint job, the chateau hosts concerts of classical and jazz music in its ancient cellar room and its tasting room doubles as an exhibition space for local artists.
In the early evening, though, it is Thierry who takes centre stage for a tasting of his wines, leading guests down narrow stone steps to his ancient cellar stocked with thousands of bottles of precious vintages.
In the southern Rhône, visit Domaine de Beaurenard in Châteauneuf-du-Pape (+33 4 9083 7179, beaurenard.fr) for a fascinating (and free) no-appointment-necessary tasting in their ancient cellars; and in the northern Rhône visit Maison Chapoutier (+33 4 7508 9261, chapoutier.com) in Tain l'Hermitage for the same.
Not that a few ancient cellars in Europe are threatened by the actions of the New York City Department of Health and Mental Hygiene (yes, you out there with dirty minds, that is the Health Department's official name).
Although the Beyers have a modern winery at the edge of town, tastings take place in ancient cellars housed in what was once a medieval coach inn right by the main square.
The song whispers of history, of secrets sealed in ancient cellars and buried under cobblestones.
The grandiose Palazzo Chiericati has been beautifully renovated to showcase the municipal art collection, with the current exhibition of historical portraits creatively displayed underground in the ancient kitchens and cellars.
The ancient Via Decumana runs 15in below the cellar floor.
