Kuznetsova fired a terrific serve down the middle, but it was called out.
The husband-and-wife owners, David Page and Barbara Shinn, offer dishes that touch a nostalgic chord without being sentimental, like meaty pork chops and, at lunch, a terrific hamburger served with rich homemade ketchup and pickles.
If that terrific game served as an advertisement for what hockey can be, rather than what it too often is in the Bettman era of desert-based teams and swamp-based hockey, then mission accomplished, even if the Russians weren't the ones to accomplish it.
The Dane made a terrific start, serving well and attacking the net as she moved 3-0 clear, but when Sharapova hauled her way back to 4-4 it seemed her heavier hitting would hold sway.
At 0-40 in the opening game, things already looked bleak for Sharapova, but she dug in and fired down an ace and one terrific second serve as she saw off four break points.
Other hits included a terrific mushroom soup served in a delicate single-serving tureen; steamed mussels served out of the shell with garlic, parsley, tomato and butter; and what Mrs. Bourdeaux called an open mushroom ravioli that seemed more like some version of lasagna with woodsy mushrooms tucked between soft, slippery sheets of pasta.
The finest use of the kitchen's fryer is the terrific cod fritter, served with just-tender cannellini.
Pumpkin wedges, simply drizzled with olive oil and roasted at 350 degrees until soft (about 25 to 40 minutes), make a terrific starch when served in their skins, garnished with a fresh drizzle of oil or butter and a scattering of sea salt.
Terrific crispy pork is served with saut?
Grilled lamb chops were juicy, served with terrific lemon potatoes dusted with fresh parsley.
The salchipapas ($6), a platter large enough for a few children to share as an entree, contained frankfurters sliced lengthwise and lightly fried, served over terrific French fries.
