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And despite a sooty palette at Theyskens' Theory and the amount of black leather, Olivier Theyskens's collection showed more vitality than last season, maybe because he gave real value to just about everything he put out on the runway, from terrific coat dresses to a crinkled blouson top to an over-scaled navy coat with a black leather mini.
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Duvhult (will I ever learn how to pronounce an Ikea name?), designed by Emma Dafnas, is a terrific coat-rack/bench with the uprights made from bamboo poles.
There were also some terrific coats, though, primarily the shearling-lined car coats printed with the Prince of Wales checks on the exterior.
The silhouette looked fresh and street-contemporary, with some terrific coats in rough black fur and a parka in olive cotton with a wide hem of fur.
The Paris shows were loaded with terrific coats — a worn-looking black leather trench at Lanvin with zip-off wool sleeves, jackets with big fur cowls at Ann Demeulemeester — but Mr. Owens had the ambition to put his designs on a higher level.
The wit and sense of craft are sometimes sacrificed to a strange dollhouse formality, but Mr. Mizrahi's ability to blend sportswear and glamour (a glitter parka, a terrific fur coat made from rag strips of fur) is always original.
Silviniaco Conti: "He looks terrific his coat and way better than he did at this time last year.
They opened with gray suits and two terrific cashmere coats, one in leaf green, with broad sharp shoulders.
Terrific winter coats and an array of impressive knitwear will keep those repeat customers coming back for more and should help to ensnare a few new ones too.
The clothes were simple but hardly plain, and for once just about everything in the collection, including some terrific mohair coats in dark blue and grass green, looked feather-light.
Slob appeal is out, though even polished looks remain casual, with cuddly knits over suede pants (shirred at Ralph Lauren, in a gaucho style at Oscar de la Renta) and some terrific slouchy coats in leather and military mole brown.
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