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By putting a price on banchan, Mr. Kim makes it optional, just another tapas plate.
A simple tapas plate of barnacles in olive oil and garlic at Pipa is $25.
A tapas plate doubles as an ashtray; a sake beaker works as a bud vase; an espresso cup becomes a toothbrush holder.
A Spanish tapas plate of warm, tender marinated artichokes, mild pequillo peppers, Serrano ham, olives and slightly too cold Manchego cheese satisfied two robust eaters (for less than $5 each).
Too much salt bedeviled a few of the other dishes, including an arugula salad with Manchego cheese; the otherwise delectable codfish balls (creamy salt cod-potato interior bound by a crisp, golden shell, drizzled with garlic mayonnaise); a large tapas plate of fresh sardines with cauliflower puree; and the oxtail gnocchi.
We opted to do their six-wine tasting (along with a little tapas plate) and enjoyed not only sampling the wines, but talking to their knowledgeable staff.
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Tapas plates €2 €5.
Ocho (2325 Northwest Market Street; 206-784-0699; www.ochoballard.com) serves tapas plates including the Three Amigos (prawn, clam and chorizo atop a saffron paella cake) for $6.
Restaurants Jaleo, 480 Seventh St. NW, (202) 628-7949, is a spacious, stylish tapas bar within walking distance of the Mall; two tapas plates and a glass of good Galician white wine came to about $20.
Greek mezze and Spanish tapas plates both licence slimline gluttony - small bites of everything with a good deal less of the cream and butter that still gives French food lots of its flavour.
As I tucked into cod with cockles and grilled fennel with saffron mayonnaise and caught up on some reading, I reflected on another boon for those of us willing to strike out alone: those annoying tapas plates meant for sharing but are never quite enough for two?
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