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It's a wild set-up, and first-time visitors should take a guide.
There are endless hikes - take a guide for all but the easiest - such as to the bubbling Boiling Lake, enveloped in a cloud of vapour.
If you do go in search of treasure, make sure you take a guide, which can be hired in nearby Baños for $80 per day with Geotours (groups of four minimum, geotoursbanios.com).
George Williams, a manager at Take a Guide, (800) 825-3824, www.take-a-guide.com, says that his company might include, in addition to Chartwell, Blenheim and the War Rooms, stops at Churchill's private London residence at 26 Hyde Park Gate, some of his favorite clubs and restaurants, and a number of private homes with collections.
It's easy enough to walk the coastline, but when it comes to climbing the peak, Rodolfo and Claudia, the helpful couple who run the Sudoeste SW tourism office, told me I really had to take a guide and rustled up Tico.
You have to take a guide; mine, Mansur, carries a frail-looking forked stick which is our only defence should a dragon turn aggressive.
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7 p.m. [Free] Take a guided twilight tour of Prospect Park.
EMPTY QUARTER Take a guided trip into this treacherous landscape.
Participants will take a guided walk and see a film.
Take a guided tour of the University's picturesque campus.
Visit to the Museum of Modern Art to take a guided tour with a group of public-school children.
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