A drizzling of syrupy pomegranate sauce provides an additional spark of sweet acidity.
Finish with some strawberry soup with lime sorbet, a blast of tart-sweet acidity to cut the heaviness of the meaty maelstrom.
The rind added just the touch of sweet acidity to help the peaches do their work of cutting through the fat in the foie gras.
Much of his food is light, tropical even, and he relies on the sweet acidity of fruit to make it sing.
His red-eye gravy is spiked with Stumptown coffee and the sweet acidity of tomatoes, the grits are folded with cream cheese to a ridiculous lushness, and the iced tea is sweetened with the funk of molasses.
Tender and succulent, complemented by the sweet acidity of tomatoes and the mellowed bite of onions, these long-cooked beans had a rich lushness that crisp vegetables could never approach.
That ham, for instance, is a thin-fingered delight, a dainty portion served in a bath of horseradish foam, with pickled beets that appear to be mere architectural details until their sweet acidity explodes in the mouth.
But, this week, I had the urge to use plums in something savoury, a salad – as you might use peaches or watermelon in sunnier months – the sweet acidity a tantalising foil to some peppery leaves and the buttery crunch of peanuts.
The tongue could not have been much easier: we poached it (forever) with aromatic vegetables, and Fouin made a sauce that was little more than tomatoes and strawberries, stewed together until jammy; it was gorgeous, and its sweet acidity complemented the rich tongue perfectly.
Combining the pleasures of dark caramel, crisp pastry and the sweet acidity of apples, it deserves to be served with the very best crème fraîche ("full fat, please," says Raymond) or vanilla ice cream.
