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For dessert, try the classic combination of crunchy cantuccini with sweet vin santo.
The biscotti di Prato, a traditional Florentine hard biscuit made with almonds, while usually dipped into the strong sweet vin santo of Italy, are also excellent with port.
Quaresimali biscotti, thick with almond shards; the Napoletani, studded with bits of dried cherry and almond slivers; and the Regina, covered in sesame seeds, stand up well to a sweet vin santo at the end of an evening.
As for other entrees, a splash of sweet vin santo balanced the appealing gaminess of duck breast pan-seared with mushrooms, and grilled rib-eye steak was tender and nicely grilled to order.
I would arrive back in south London with huge lumps of the best parmigiano, slices of sweet prosciutto in their greaseproof packages, and bottles of sweet vin Santo, as if all of this had been the real purpose of the trip.
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Housed in a collection of former sugar warehouses, Hotel du Vin is sweet indeed, with its blend of 18th-century architecture and contemporary sensibility.
But the cookies with rosemary and pepper have a more sophisticated flavor and, served with a sweet wine like a vin santo, are good as an alternative to biscotti.
My memories linger around visions of classic summertime Americana; hot dogs on the grill, cold beer (or in my case Coca-Cola), sweet apple pie, and Vin Scully on the call from Dodger Stadium.
Until recent decades, however, the region was best known for sweet, fortified wines called vins doux naturels.
The salty, peppery, nutty whole is flavored with a little vin cotto, a sweet syrup made from wine grapes.
The best new finds include a floral white Minervois Domaine de la Tour Boisee ($23, at 7.53 francs to the dollar), and an almost sweet, far from simple white vin de pays from the Domaine Belles Pierres ($28).
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