Khoresh fesenjan (a sweet stew of chicken, walnuts, and pomegranate paste): Ravagh.
But the rabbit in stifado, a slightly sweet stew made with red wine and pearl onions, was dried out, and a roasted leg of lamb, though flavorful enough, was also too dry.
Make pumpkin and apple halwa (a sweet stew).
Serve this sweet, sharp stew with steamed rice.
Spicy Lentil and Sweet Potato Stew With Chipotles: The combination of sweet potatoes and spicy chipotles with savory lentils is a winner.
Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays bring a terrific, vaguely sweet oxtail stew ($6.50) with generous helpings of meat and shockingly flavorful potatoes.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Daikon duck hash; sizzling cuttlefish; spicy beef salad; beef cheeks with pandan parsnip purée; black cod with sweet pepper stew; loup de mer with green curry; vermicelli with pork belly and shrimp; yucca waffle; mocha bread pudding.
A gigantic bowl of spiced pumpkin soup ($6.95) could feed a small family, its creamy base stocked with simmered-until-sweet cabbage, stew beef, carrots, potatoes and pasta shells (unnecessary and unfortunately, overcooked).
Since 1969, the cute street stand has been the pride of three generations of Tommy Parrinellos, the latest one an enthusiastic maker of coarse pork-and-anise sausage; sweet, spicy stewed-onion chili that dresses a superlative chili dog; and a mind-boggling Jersey creation called the Italian hot dog.
Main courses include roasted rack of organic pork, steamed corn pudding, crisp fresh bacon with wild greens; roasted Maine lobster with sweet corn, stewed cabbage and potato puree; and Muscovy duck breast with seared foie gras, carrot puree, fricassee of carrots and flageolets in a sherry walnut vinaigrette.
It's chaos: no one knows which bus they're supposed to be on or when it leaves, but I remember a breakfast with locals, at 5.30am, of sweet chai stewed to hell under a horrible milk crust, with flatbread and rice probably leftover from the night before – yet all delicious.
