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The fried calamari were served not with a marinara sauce but with an Asian-inspired sweet ginger sauce.
A modest ceramic bowl contains a clever thing: a warm cider mousse with softened apple below and shreds of sweet ginger on top.
Sweet Ginger has enough heat to punch up a sauce for poultry, and is a better bet than Sweet Heat, with chilies.
That turned out to be about a mile from the peak, where a gravel lot was surrounded by modest wooden stalls selling phone cards, sweet ginger tea and cigarettes.
Rare seared sesame tuna was fibrous and bland, with an overly sweet ginger sauce, and portobello mushroom salad with roasted peppers was the standard fare of a thousand mid-market Italian restaurants.
On the other hand, Mr. Waltuck does pull off some dazzling effects, especially with a sushi-size piece of salmon marinated overnight in mirin, soy and sake, and then dry-cured for two days, and a delectable slice of salmon pickled in sweet ginger brine.
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Side dishes, served with most platters, include a sweet ginger-flavored pasta salad, red bliss potato salad, spinach salad and a mélange of black beans and rice.
The buffalo wings were better than the Shanghai variety, which had a cloyingly sweet ginger-citrus sauce, but the egg rolls were nondescript, though my daughter liked them.
An ethereal custard covered with crunchy cookie crumbs and spicy-sweet ginger plays the pumpkin role with more grace.
Next time we would try beef or minced pork with sweet onion and fresh ginger.
Her remedy was a tall glass of fresh ginger juice, honey-sweet and barely diluted, topped with a squeeze of lime ($3).
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com