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The sweet clam bellies are the size of quarters ($9.75 for a small carton).
Sweet clam, bright, delightful and a little chewy; red clam, with a lovely crosshatched design, tangy and a little sharper than the sweet clam; small, silvery gizzard shad, which tasted like pickled herring; and then wonderfully tender maguro tuna, broiled ever so briefly and painted with fresh wasabi.
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A mild mustard dressing added another dimension to sweet clams with vinegared soybean paste (kai nuta).
The one-two punch of sweet clams and briny capers ($14) was delicious.
Chip Chip are tiny sweet clams served with rice on the beach at Maracas Bay, as is Shark and Bake - superbly fried, superbly spiced freshly fried fish in a chewy bun.
On Armona, Célia showed me a trick she learned as a child: digging in the sand with your heels at low tide and collecting dozens of cadelinhas, tiny sweet clams that she later cooked with garlic, coriander and olive oil.
She brings us spaghetti laden with the titchiest, sweetest clams the size of Tic tacs - pity the poor soul who has to shuck these - and minuscule cuttlefish scented with chilli and sage, their juices staining the linguine a delicate rose.
"Mussel broth is sweet and clam broth is saltier and stronger.
And the bellies dripped sweet, briny clam juice down my chin.
Introducing the Shinns' clams casino recipe, Ms. Shinn writes: "As the first batch of sweet cooked clams came out of the broiler bubbling with bacon fat, everyone grabbed for one.
Sweet littleneck clams and garlicky nubs of excellent bratwurst swim in a buttery, saline kolsch broth ($11).
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com