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His usual sugar maker didn't have any Grade A Fancy this year at all.
Some 200 shipments roared along the circuitous Belgium-to-Croatia route over a three-year-period, investigators say, earning 3 million euros in refunds (about $4.5 million) for the Belgian sugar maker Beneo-Orafti.
Indeed, in the spring of 2001, the board of the Imperial Sugar Company, the country's largest sugar maker, reached Mr. McLaughlin, 69, on the golf course with an invitation to join its board as it prepared to emerge from bankruptcy.
The British sugar maker's roots go back to 1859 when Henry Tate started refining, then introduced the sugar cube to Britain in 1875.
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But large sugar makers like Mr. Lamothe, 58, said their crops were off by a third or more.
Most large sugar makers now use tubing to collect sap instead of buckets, which may be picturesque, but are no fun to lug out of the woods.
While old-timers call syrup like Mr. Proulx's "techno-syrup," many sugar makers find they need to use at least one modern device.
De Boré looked up sugar makers who had fled Saint-Domingue when their slaves rebelled in 1791 (the start of the revolution that created Haiti).
In the last two years, the state's Department of Agriculture has handed out five grants to sugar makers for devices like vacuum pumps and reverse osmosis machines.
Mr. Proulx burns far less wood than he used to, and for sugar makers who use oil, such equipment can mean considerable savings.
Brazil's sugar cane industry needs $10 billion of investment by 2012 as rising demand for ethanol leaves sugar makers short of cane and drives up the price of sugar to record highs, the country's agriculture minister said.
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