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There were other things to like that night: a crisp salad of artichokes, endive and arugula with a subtle lemon dressing, and a rich, fragrant seafood risotto.
Excellent sorbets included subtle lemon and orange and a stronger berry, or try a selection of three thick, creamy custards; but skip tame dark-and-white chocolate mousse cake for Mom's apple and raisin cake (like a wonderful bread pudding) simply bursting with flavor.
No such problems were encountered with two fish dishes: a sprawling fillet of lemon sole ($15) drizzled with a subtle lemon sauce and a jumbo-sized whole sautéed Dover sole ($19.50) sporting a lively topping of lemon, capers and fresh herbs.
A heavily laden dessert cart bore a pretty assortment of familiar creamy cakes and Italian pastry, but they were overshadowed by a few other offerings: spicy poached pear; flaky, not overly sweet apple strudel with vanilla ice cream; subtle lemon cream tart, the crust just a milligram too heavy for the dainty filling; and several kinds of plump berries.
The flavors are soft and fresh, tasting of white cherries and subtle lemon, with a creamy, almond-like finish that balances out bright acidity.
An option for adding more subtle lemon flavor to your beer is to steep lemon peel in the secondary fermenter.
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A thick pork chop was fatty and bland; grilled tournedos of beef was thoroughly ordinary; Vietnamese chicken had a subtle lemon-grass marinade, but the meat was dry and under-flavored.
The grilled mahi-mahi, a nightly special I was served on my second visit, was very good: crisp on the outside, flaky and moist within, and came in a subtle lemon-butter sauce with capers.
Yuzu is less sharp and more subtle than lemon, allowing its fruitiness to come through, said Wylie Dufresne, the chef and an owner of WD-50.
To achieve that, he went with subtle traces of lemon, lemon grass, jasmine and ginger.
One of the best desserts I had in London was an elegant and very subtle elderflower-lemon tart served with raspberry sauce and creme fraiche.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com