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Straightforward meat and fish entrees were nicely done.
Donatz, who has 14 GaultMillau stars, is known for his straightforward meat dishes – try his signature veal cotelet "Jacky Spezial" and his Siedfleisch (steamed meat) specialty "Jacky".
Dinners were usually straightforward; meat, potatoes, always a salad, and some vegetable that no one would eat.
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Among the limited selection of more substantial dishes, patatas riojanas, a traditional northern stew, is well balanced, with onions, spicy chorizo, and pimentón, a peppery Spanish spice like paprika, but it's ultimately a straightforward meat-and-potatoes dish.
Good with any straightforward roast red meats such as beef or lamb.
Osso bucco carried the same aromatics as the polpettine; perfectly cooked rabbit came with Brussels sprouts and beets; suckling pig, done in the most straightforward manner, featured moist meat but — sadly — almost equally tender and moist skin.
Nor are there complicated dishes involving fantastical combinations; instead the straightforward menu includes filling bean stews, long-braised meats and fish lightly roasted in cider.
Entrees are simple — straightforward grilled or roasted meats and fish, well seasoned but without sauces that obscure the essential taste.
And that tweak turned out to be as straightforward as the choice of meat itself: the good old steak sandwich.
It's pretty straightforward, and it makes sense: the dark meat becomes fork-tender; the skin of the breast becomes crisp and the meat remains moist.
Try the mixed version ($8.50) topped with melted cheese, tomatoes and green peppers and filled with pastrami, sausage, mozzarella, ground meat and tomatoes or the straightforward kiymali pide ($7.50) with its vibrantly seasoned ground lamb.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com