The rib-eye steak, by far the most expensive entree at $32, was juicy and tender, and the roasted garlic Yukon mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus served with it were first rate.
So Savoy's steaks, by far the most expensive entrees, don't seem worth the price.
It was several steps above most chain steaks, but far below what you would get at a decent Manhattan steakhouse.
Cross sees his 150-plus-day steaks – so far only served to guinea pigs – as a future tasting menu item, which will be served in small portions with, say, a few pickled blueberrries.
Steaks warm far too slowly to make a difference.
Beefy, bloody and bizarrely hard to get right, steak has an appeal far beyond the average piece of meat.
After which came a tournedos de biche (a doe steak, quite rightly cooked far from pink), and an ornate fines feuilles au chocolat noir caraibes with quince, resembling the very hat that Carmen Miranda once swore she would eat.
But there's meat on this steak upon which so far no one's been chewing.
A few main dishes like hanger steak chimichurri take the menu far from Spain in distance, though perhaps not in spirit: Tryp Hotel, 345 West 35th Street; (646) 200-8857.
Much closer to Center City, in the midst of the South Street tourist district, it draws far more cheese steak neophytes.
They are building from Broadway in South Williamsburg, where the smoky aroma from the Peter Luger Steak House wafts, to the far northern reaches of Greenpoint and deep into East Williamsburg, where leafy streets like Ten Eyck and Scholes Streets recall "A Tree Grows in Brooklyn" by Betty Smith.
