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They asked me if I would make something to contain the bottle, but with a special serving ritual.
In a remarkable new book, "Ancient Wine" (Princeton; $29.95), the archeologist Patrick E. McGovern shows that six thousand years ago an entire "wine culture" was already associated with special serving and drinking vessels.
Of the four, cinema is the pleasure which can consistently roll food, sex and countless other feelings, themes and experiences into one interesting batch of tiramisu and, more imporantly, you can look at it (I always crave steak when Glenn Ford bites into that slab of meat in The Big Heat; Lee Marvin's special serving of steaming hot coffee, not so much).
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The best entree sampled was a fall-away-tender osso buco special served over saffron rice.
Much better were a white-chocolate-yogurt and banana napoleon; a strawberry-rhubarb shortcake special served with house-made ice cream; and the refreshing homemade sorbets.
The half-hour special serves up outré left-wing pieties and public radio stereotypes in the deadpan manner of Elaine May and Mike Nichols.
The wild-tuna sashimi a glistening, garnet dinner special, served alongside fermented yuzu zest spiked with chili pepper is the ultimate revelation.
At Casa Nonna, 310 West 38th Street (Eighth Avenue), in the Garment District, an all-you-can-eat meatball special served with a side of pasta and a full carafe of wine is $35.
The Nasi Babi Guling special — served with a fiery red sauce over local greens, cooked jackfruit and coconut-infused rice — is 25,000 rupiah (about $2.70 at 9,241 rupiah to the dollar).
A pennette pasta special (served as an appetizer or entree) came with his oyster mushrooms, artichoke hearts and broccoli rabe in a fennel cream sauce that combined the sweet and the savory to great effect.
We also liked the prime rib (a special, served medium rare as ordered) teamed with a very creamy potato gratin and assorted varieties of baby squash, and a light version of a Reuben sandwich made with turkey and homemade sauerkraut.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com