Eggplant is a staple in the Arab world, the source of the dish called moussaq'a, a classic (and vegan to boot, if you leave off the yogurt).
I discovered another top-flight producer, Four Story Hill Farm in Honesdale, Pa., 30 miles northeast of Scranton, by asking about the source of the dish "Black Pig Variation" (a pig's trotter stuffed with morels and a feather-light pork cutlet) that I tasted at Seeger's, a superb restaurant in Atlanta.
Where Marshall keeps a low profile, providing his wisdom to a select few, Spinney is a spigot of information -- spraying his unconventional wisdom on a Web site, to sympathizers on Capitol Hill and to reporters who have known him for years as a source of reliable dish on doubtful weapons.
"Quick Cuisine, Easy and Elegant Recipes for Every Occasion" (Dutton, 1993) by Ann Clark is the source of two favorite dishes, a paillard of chicken with Parmesan, and hominy with sweet corn, poblano and cilantro.
This and other terrific pizzas are made in the wood-burning oven, which is also the source of fine baked dishes like a casserole of wild mushrooms served in a crock with arugula, goat cheese, olives, tomatoes and mozzarella.
If that was the moment we fell in love with this noisy, bustly place - a former chicken factory plainly but pleasingly done out with pink and off-white walls, mirrors with sherry menus painted on them, and a picture of the pigs from which much of the meat is sourced - the succession of dishes that followed only deepened the emotion.
The oven, source of the more traditional dishes, pushes out a thoroughly orthodox pizza Margherita, and the kind of dish you walk into a trattoria to get: a roasted fish of the day, served with roasted potatoes and sautéed escarole with golden and red raisins.
The oven, source of the more traditional dishes, produces what may be the best appetizer on the menu, focaccina split in half and spread with a mixture of robiola cheese, potato and spinach, then drizzled with truffle oil.
Eggs are a common source of protein in Chinese dishes.
