Alternative spelling of souq
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We explored the wind-whipped town's white and blue port and souk, known for exquisite woodwork and musical instruments – the town hosts the renowned Gnaoua world music festival each year.
Tate Modern became almost too popular for its own good, a heaving cultural souk – acutely in need of its planned extension – where art can occasionally be seen between massed heads and shoulders.
Most of these hotels are 50% vacant and the malls are empty – the rents are too expensive for the former souk stall-holders.
In a North African souk recently people kept shouting 'Ali Baba Ali Babaat' at me, which is a little surprising given I was probably the only non-Arab there".
While the adults dealt with the paperwork, the Jangano juniors explored the souk, chatting to the traders and their families, drinking tea, learning a little Arabic, discovering the pleasure of haggling and eating kilos of dates.
We started with a brass door, and Mustafa declaring, "This is a brass door", but we soon scaled up to include the hidden passageways of the souk, the shadowy old metal-working quarter, the ancient leather market (much more interesting than it sounds) and, finally, the city's 16th-century madrassa, with its walls covered in delicate carvings from the Qur'an.
The assailant threw two grenades at Mr Ibrahim's entourage, driving through the dusty plaza that the Iraqi regime created when in 1991 it bulldozed the rebels' hideouts in the old souk.
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