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One day a couple of weeks ago, for example, when the two were holding a meeting with the staff to explain a Dover sole dish and to try wines with it, Mr. Ducasse did a lot of the talking.
"There were oysters and caviar and Champagne and foie gras and a beautiful duck dish, and a Dover sole dish and salad and cheese, and dessert -- profiteroles with ice cream and chocolate sauce -- and some delicious wines.
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It's heavy old-school French cooking so as a vegetarian I hesitated at the thought of ordering the staple sole veggie dish on the menu, mushroom risotto.
The sole remaining dish is a winner: plump oysters warmed in a gewurztraminer-and-cream sauce, enhanced by green grapes and crisp leeks.
Only dishes.
For a main course you can get a whole fish roasted or sautéed, then choose your sauce (the limone is good with the Dover sole) and side dish.
When I lived in France, I made this dish with sole, but Atlantic sole is no longer an eco-friendly choice.
Point three: my sole-and-shrimp dish came sans shrimps.
There's a menu that mixes English comfort food like braised oxtail and chicken and mushroom pie with hotel dishes such as sole meunière, plus the new dishes based on classic French cuisine that have made this hotel a benchmark in gastronomy for more than a quarter of a century.
Great starters and a wonderful signature dish of sole in asparagus cream.
I agree that in future, sole reliance on this dish, served up as it has been for decades with a garnish of research on the side, is not the imaginative offer asked for by Barber.
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