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Our table enjoyed a salad of meaty, sweet heirloom tomatoes and soft mozzarella touched by a mild pesto.
An artistic arrangement of cold, slim asparagus, scoops of soft mozzarella and roasted sweet red pepper tasted as good as it looked, and a plentiful serving of mild, smoked fish -- salmon, trout, bluefish pate, whitefish salad -- arranged on a bed of field greens could have made a satisfying light entree.
My all-time favorite, though, is the burricotta pizza with buttery soft mozzarella from Puglia, peperonata, taggiasche olives from Liguria and a sprinkling of Sicilian dried oregano.
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A specialty of Salerno, Italy, it is made from a sheet of fresh buffalo mozzarella wrapped and tied like a beggar's purse around a creamy center of even softer mozzarella floating in cream.
Starters include good smoked salmon over garlic-rubbed toast with arugula ($10), prosciutto di Parma with string beans (nearbly raw) and shaved pecorino ($9.50), and a lovely assortment of grilled summer vegetables with soft bufalo mozzarella ($15.50).
I liked a pizza of grilled peaches, Gorgonzola and prosciutto, but preferred a basic pizza Margherita, its grilled crust blackened in zebra stripes underneath, with just the right amount of soft, slightly browned mozzarella on top (my 6-year-old daughter pronounced it "The best!").
Appetizers are the weak spot on the menu, though a few dishes stand out, like a heaping platter of sautéed calamari ($8), served with a spicy tomato sauce that doesn't fool around, and sweet roasted peppers paired with soft, nut-flavored mozzarella ($6.50).
Grating a soft cheese like mozzarella with a microplane would only give you a mushy mass instead of cleanly grated cheese.
The mozzarella is soft and delicious, the pizza is spare and tasty, and the salads are interesting.
We began our meal with a plate of antipasto, a generous arrangement that included prosciutto, silky soppressata, mozzarella and soft, sweet eggplant rollatini.
A basic but expert marriage of tangy sauce; soft, sweet house-made mozzarella; and aromatic marjoram sprigs, it reassures that creativity here is matched by technique.
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Since I tried Ludwig back in 2017, I have been constantly using it in both editing and translation. Ever since, I suggest it to my translators at ProSciEditing.

Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com