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The weight of the meat on the hefty, crusty fat-trimmed Lundy ribs ($12.95) from North Carolina often causes the soft beef to fall from the bone.
The slow braised steak pizzaiola ($14.95) hit the bulls-eye:, slabs of soft beef simmering in a dark liquid studded with plum tomatoes, roasted garlic and oregano atop a risotto cake that will appeal to pot roast and stew aficionados.
When his beef pie (£14) arrives, he looks a little crestfallen that it's quite mannered (for which read small and neat), but what it lacks in Desperate Dan qualities, it makes up for in taste – rich, very short pastry, a layer of garlicky, buttery sauce and unctuous gravy, with clods of meltingly soft beef.
Top entree honors were shared by the ribs: the rack of fall-from-the-bone-tender bourbon-espresso-glazed pork ribs, accompanied by a bowl of creamy coleslaw, and the seductively soft beef short ribs braised in merlot, served with a mound of smooth parsnip purée, sautéed cippolini onions, baby carrots and haricots verts.
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But, on one recent evening, the culotte steak of wagyu, a famously butter-soft beef, arrived chewy.
A blend of Japanese and American culture, it's an ultra-soft beef patty drizzled with a sweet (but secret) shoyu sauce, topped with rocket and spring onions, all sandwiched between two ramen "buns" – soft boiled noodles compacted into rigid circles.
We also liked the ropa vieja, soft shredded beef cooked with garlic, onions, bell peppers, wine and tomato sauce.
A crisp fashioned from sweet potato and two tiny orange-stained water chestnuts are a great foil for glossy, soft Wagyu beef.
If I was designing my perfect burger it would have a soft bun, beef cooked on a flat-top and well seasoned, onions (caramelised or otherwise), processed cheese and a bit of special sauce - like the stuff they use in a Big Mac.
To assess bacterial motility in the presence or absence of sub inhibitory concentrations of prodigiosin the well-established TTC based soft agar (beef extract 3 g/L; pancreatic digest of casein 10 g/L; sodium chloride 5 g/L; agar 4 g/L; pH 7.0) method was used.
It's famously--weirdly, to my taste--soft, this beef of theirs.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com