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But the lesser-known restaurants are of greater interest these days, where the trend is toward simpler cooking, with local ingredients.
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All the home cook has to do is follow simple cooking directions and serve.
No other restaurant in the city makes the simple cooking of fish (and the fish at Le Bernardin is cooked simply, when it is cooked at all) seem so ripe with opportunities for excitement.
"Simple cooking is never simple".
"We did fairly simple cooking," she says.
This is simple cooking at its best.
— than persist in fawning over restaurants that purvey simple cooking.
Christensen found comfort in the "plain, simple" cooking her mother jokingly called "blue plate specials".
It was this dish that led to our argument about what simple cooking meant.
Ducksoup Cookbook: The Wisdom of Simple Cooking is out on 28 April (Square Peg).
Antonio Carluccio's latest book is Antonio Carluccio's Simple Cooking (Quadrille, £20).
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