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"I usually eat it with a side of salmon," says my buff bartender.
The recipe started with an entire side of salmon and ended three days later when I carefully carved the fish, one rosy, gossamer sliver at a time.
These days, I want gravlax more often than I want to give a party for 40, so a side of salmon is just plain overkill.
That first time, I shopped slowly; seeking out crabs, some sole, a handful of oysters, a few prawns and my big ticket item: a side of salmon.
Taught by charcuterie king Marc Frederic, punters take home half a side of salmon cured as gravadlax and a piece of pork in wet cure to finish for Christmas, as well as tasters (£145 for the day, empirefarm.co.uk).
Grilled whole side of salmon Serves 8 1 wild salmon, 4kg, trimmed and filleted extra-virgin olive oil 2 lemons, cut into quarters Preheat a grill, griddle pan or barbecue.
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Now, they smoke "about 100 sides of salmon a week".
I visited Murray Smoked Products, and came home with two sides of salmon.
3. Rub 2 remaining tablespoons butter on both sides of salmon pieces.
To do so, Mr. Rayman rides a slow electric lift through a two-tiered chamber where sides of salmon lie in multilayered bunk beds, half-obscured by an opaque blanket of smoke.
Imagine sides of salmon bronzed with juniper and beech smoke, sea salty and bacon-y crispy on the outside, giving way to creamy, velvety, gently smoke-scented fish that's not quite raw but certainly not cooked in the center.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com