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Its bearnaise sauce -- dense and creamy, with a sharp vinegar note -- is fine, and the fries are too, but the steak is a little tough and stringy.
Whether or not the recipe calls for a mayonnaise dressing, warm bacon, hard-cooked eggs, chunks of unpeeled potatoes, a sharp vinegar edge, grated carrot, a touch of sweetness or diced herring, often depends on the heritage of the cook.
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One of the best entrees on the menu is the fish and chips — light and crispy and served with a sharp malt vinegar.
So I made it again, reducing the sugar and substituting balsamic for the sharper wine vinegar.
A sample plate of sea bream with a warm, sharp, wine vinegar-laced salsa of onion, tomato and olives was simple, well-balanced and very accurately cooked.
From the menu, a starter of small rock shrimp in salsa verde and a timbale of mushrooms came in as distant seconds, but avoid the ill-conceived match of good prosciutto and overly sharp and vinegar-soaked Granny Smith apple.
Sharp liquids (vinegars and citrus juices), whole seeds, and dried herbs and spices work especially well.
Soy sauce worked nicely, as did sharp red wine vinegar (not balsamic).
Like most heavy, rich foods, shad roe is best finished with something sharp, like capers, vinegar or mustard.
The sauce — thick, sweet and tomatoey, with sharp notes of vinegar and chile — is optional; the rust-red dry rub provided enough spicy flavor.
The first sharp hit of vinegar on potato, the softness of melted cheese on pizza, the rich chill of a spoonful of ice-cream.
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