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And now, in a space accented with a knitted light installation, the duo serve updated comfort dishes that Mr. Moser said are inspired by recipes handed down through the generations, like a creamy leek quiche topped with bright purple rutabaga strips; it is paired with a radicchio-mâche salad (17.50 francs).
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Siro's, 307 Victory Road, (617) 472-4500, serves updated contemporary cuisine with an Italian twist.
This lively bistro on the edge of the meatpacking district serves updated Moroccan cuisine.
Noélia is a seriously good chef who serves updated Portuguese classics such as octopus fritters with coriander rice.
The chef Michael Psilakas, who serves updated Greek cuisine in his Manhattan restaurants Anthos and Kefi, isn't shy with them either.
Drew Nieporent is turning Layla, at 211 West Broadway (Franklin Street) into Centrico, serving updated Mexican fare by the chef, Aarón Sánchez, who is also a partner.
Though Distilled is supposed to evoke an old-time public house, it's much more than that, what with Shane Lyons, who was at Momofuku Noodle Bar, as the chef and a partner, serving updated American classics.
And on the top floor is a stylish restaurant called simply X, serving updated takes on classic Turkish cuisine, with a commanding view of the Golden Horn and the historic neighborhoods that run along it.
En Part of a successful restaurant chain that serves updated Japanese pub fare, En occupies the 11th floor of the Touei building, an entertainment complex across the street from bustling Shibuya station.
Mr. English's longtime lieutenant, Victor LaPlaca, above, is chef de cuisine, serving updated, mostly French specialties like a croque madame sandwich with mornay sauce for dipping, smoked salmon sliders, chickpea fries with harissa, mushrooms with foie gras stuffing, and rabbit Wellington on carrot pur?
Sunburned, on art overload and weighed down by another rich meal -- this time at Le Restaurant, a bistro serving updated classics on the flanks of Montmartre near my hotel ($27, with a half-bottle of Rhône wine) -- I was ready for a good night's sleep.
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