Blowfish, the meaty little mouthfuls that are sometimes called chicken of the sea or sea squabs, can also be here today and gone tomorrow.
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Shellfish ravioli, carpaccio of beets, duck "tasting," grilled prawn, foie gras, squab, sea bass, lobster, quail, tuna, cheese assortment, all desserts.
Especially terrific: black bass crudo, artichoke and spinach casserole, frisee and bacon, grilled quail, almond-crusted crab cake, prosciutto-wrapped rainbow trout, pan-roasted Chilean sea bass, roasted squab and foie gras, honey-glazed duck breast, pork duo.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Selection of oysters, mussels in curried broth, cashew-crusted prawns, tuna duo (seared and tartar), tandori squab, gingered sea scallops, wild striped bass, salmon, chocolate tear, banana pancake, chocolate cheesecake.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- All salads, oysters every way, smoked salmon, duck confit, mushroom-barley soup, veal paillard, venison chops, filet mignon, squab, pork tenderloin, Chilean sea bass, swordfish, salmon, all desserts.
Sea scallop "Benedict" with lobster hollandaise, gingersnap barbecued squab, and strudel with bubble gum sorbet are a few of the menu items.
I began with some glazed oysters flecked with osetra caviar, a dense blast of sea flavors, followed by a rich concoction of spiced squab on a bed of vegetables exuding an aromatic fog of cumin and citrus.
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Quail with mushrooms, Savoy cabbage and turnip; tuna tartare with sea urchin vinaigrette; roasted cod and brandade; lobster chowder; squab with endive relish, lemon and dates; brioche bread pudding with dried fruit compote; fromage blanc cheesecake.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Smoked trout with avocado and balsamic vinegar; phyllo-crusted shrimp with baby squid and scallops in an herb broth; black sea bass; wild salmon with a white truffle sauce; squab stuffed with foie gras; chocolate brioche pudding; "chocolate frivolous," of chocolate, hazelnut and coffee.
Oysters and calf brains were delightful together, if you could ignore the sea beans, which added an unnecessary extra touch of slime; aged squab put up too much of a fight.
