(Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) Daniel Bouland Morgon $20 1/2 (Two and a Half Stars) Vieilles Vignes 2007 Dense and rugged with flavors of black cherries and earth.
(Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant Daniel Bouland Morgon Vieilles Vigness 2007 $20 ** 1/2 (Two and a Half Stars) Dense and rugged with flavors of black cherries and earth.
Either way, the look should be rugged.
Not surprisingly, the plummy fruit and spice flavors, the good acidity and the occasionally rugged tannins are more than a little reminiscent of port.
Fire Island, for instance, is rugged and inaccessible enough to have retained its summertime flavor, and though the Hamptons now hum all year, many of the millionaires' estates are still shuttered for the winter.
There were sheets of cheesy bread crumbs covering the terrific Caesar salad ($12) with its rugged, garlicky croutons; the thin-crusted brick-oven pizza Margherita ($12) was bursting with flavor.
Both are fertile, subtropical areas with rugged, wild terrain and rich cropland fed by major rivers, and they share robust folk cooking, big flavors and blazing hot chilies.
Because the flavors are sealed in, you can have more fun with the seasonings than you would expect for rugged outdoor cooking.
