I loved beet and celery root salads served with dabs of mayonnaise and chopped pistachios, but the accompanying chèvre strudel was laden with fat.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Peeky-toe crab timbale, diver scallops, lobster bisque (special), beet and celery root salads, chopped autumn salad, khaifi shrimp, lemon sole, red snapper (special), breast of pheasant, lamb shank (special), chocolate marquis, maple crème brûlée, passion fruit-raspberry tart.
Try serving them with a simple green salad or the "Carrot and Celery Root Salad," below.
Get the cold tofu in chile oil with pickled vegetables and get the crisp, zippily dressed lotus root salad.
Current appetizers include poached oysters; pate of pork and duck; and smoked salmon with celery root salad.
The two-story emporium also has a cafe, Meal Muji, where customers can sample basic, clean-cut dishes like lotus root salad on basic, clean-cut serving trays.
WHAT WE LIKED Mussels marinières, sausage Lyonnaise, warm goat cheese salad, escargots, celery root salad; sweetbreads (special), truite meunière, roast duck l'orange, bistro steak; blueberry tarte, tarte citron, chocolate mousse, tarte Tatin.
A green bean and lotus root salad, in a frothy sesame paste emulsion, delicately balanced tender, woody bamboo root, served with crispy green beans, pumpkin seeds and disks of lotus.
Other possibilities include shredded chicken salad Sichuan style (so often watered down into "cold sesame chicken" elsewhere), Sichuan noodles (request a small portion for a starter) and lettuce root salad, the crunchy root and stem of lettuce similar to romaine.
A few minutes later, a procession of dishes began arriving: Japanese eggplant, sautéed with enough garlic to take out a vampire; steamed blood cockles; caramelized fish hatchlings cooked in a clay pot; and lotus root salad.
Crab cake, topped with a small haystack of shoestring potatoes, was decent, but the accompanying celery root salad was drowning in mayonnaise, and avocado purée seemed a calorie-laden afterthought.
