The demand for figgy pudding in We Wish You a Merry Christmas is accompanied by the more sinister threat, "We won't go until we get some". The wassail drink served on these occasions comprised an intriguing melange of mulled ale, curdled cream, roasted apples, eggs, cloves, ginger, nutmeg and sugar.
It is a remarkable combination of ingredients: string beans, pimientos, eggs, shrimp, avocado, tomato, onion, roasted pepper, egg and torn iceburg lettuce....with a garlic vinaigrette dressing.
At various points in my life, I've felt as flat as unleavened bread, bitter as horseradish, tearful as salt water, as fecund yet unfulfilled as the roasted, unfertilized egg.
You can choose from six varieties, including roasted potato with egg and cheese, uncured bacon with egg and cheese, chorizo sausage with egg and cheese, free-range chicken with beans and rice, and shredded beef and cheese.
Breakfast of made-to-order eggs, roasted potatoes and fresh fruit (with bottomless coffee) was served quickly and with a smile.
The wassail was served warm from large wooden bowls and usually contained ale or cider, roasted apples, beaten eggs, sugar and spices.
The fail-proof 100 recipes include grilled polenta, fried eggs, roasted leg of lamb, ember-baked potatoes, grilled grapes and bread pudding.
Vegetarians are well catered for here with an excellent breakfast featuring halloumi, mushrooms served fried and juicy, spinach, roasted tomato, poached eggs and the compulsory smashed avo on sourdough toast ($17.90).
I'd throw together whatever ingredients I had around, ending up with ad-hoc salads filled with pickles and scrambled eggs; roasted vegetables slathered with mayonnaise; bowls of rice topped with bacon and tahini.
One delicious salad of smoked eel, roasted potatoes with eggs, and pancetta was topped with a creamy dill and hot mustard sauce; another was a beautifully pickled herring and thinly sliced cucumber served with potatoes, capers and dill dressing.
The people gradually disperse home or to local restaurants to eat painted eggs, roasted lamb and pies crafted into elaborate shapes – holy doves or heavenly stars – continuing the theatricality of the parade itself.
