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Understandable; if you were a willing and friendly restaurant host, you'd get it.
In fact, the script baffled even the man who played the Chinese restaurant host.
I asked him: doesn't it invert, or at least pervert, the usual relationship of restaurant host to guest?
Wechsberg's profile is a relative rarity: compared with the chef, who has inspired piles of confessionals and biographies, the great restaurant host is an underexamined creature.
One curious reaction from the restaurant host or waiter is an offer to deposit the car seat and baby atop the legs of an upturned highchair, now tottering on its narrow end.
But without those scenes, we wouldn't have the chance to see Mr. Cake reincarnated as a sniffy, short-tempered restaurant host, or the peerless Elizabeth Marvel as a drawlingly hostile, combative conversationalist who is so classically a New York type that she might have stepped straight off the subway.
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The onsite Lanternan restaurant hosts a shrimp feast every Wednesday.
On Thanksgiving, Seau's restaurant hosted a meal for locals in need that drew hundreds.
Eileen Leong, who owned the place with her husband, Larry Leong, the chef, was one of the great New York City restaurant hosts, a woman with incredible manners, an iron will, immense diplomatic skills and an elephant's memory.
Mr. Tower was one of the earliest of this nation's celebrity chefs, or perhaps more precisely, celebrity restaurant hosts: regal and glamorous, excitable and temperamental and very often brilliant.
Opened in 1884, it claims to be the oldest continually operating restaurant in Rio de Janeiro, and I believe it: on one wall is a photograph of a luncheon the restaurant hosted at the turn of the 20th century for a group of notables, one of whom I recognized as my wife's great-grandfather.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com