Note that the Brooklyn Bangers concession — stocked with artisanal sausages from the chef Saul Bolton, whose Smith Street restaurant, Saul, holds one of the borough's few Michelin stars — sells a Nathan's hot dog alongside its own snappy rust-red brisket dog ($9.75) and a pallid but more belligerently spiced smoked white Cheddar bratwurst ($9.75).
The joy of Korean barbecue lies in part in its performance: watching ruby-red curls of brisket caramelize while translucent slices of Pringle-shaped tongue sizzle, crisp-edged and glinting.
"Red Ox" was oxtail and brisket with red leicester, and that was a better balance, hearty but not cloying; the basic cheese-and-tomato "Juliette" was good, too, and made use of the fact that cheddar and lincolnshire are tangier than mozzarella.
Marlon Manty, who was a chef at Blue Smoke, will serve dishes like smoked chorizo with pickled okra, flank steak tostada salad, Texas brisket with red-eye gravy and enchilada pie: 25 West 51st Street, (212) 212-88212
A good piece of brisket should be deep red.
Standout sides include the smoky mixed baked beans (black, pinto, red) with onions, bacon, pulled pork and brisket; braised red cabbage; the crinkle-cut sweet potato fries and the thickly sliced homemade potato chips.
The patio is perfect for lingering over fork-tender brisket ($8) and jicama-spiked red coleslaw ($4).
On this last visit, after we debated the relative claims of brisket and quail, we settled on wild red snapper from the seafood train.
WHAT WE LIKED Pulled-pork barbecue, barbecued half-chicken, St . Louisribs, smoked beef brisket, grilled pastrami sandwich, baked beans, braised red cabbage, sweet potato fries, house-made potato chips, seasonal vegetables, garden salad, confetti slaw.
She made them on Friday afternoons before the Jewish Sabbath, filling the centers with red jam and roasting them along with the chicken or brisket.
Many Hereford cattle may also lack the white running from their chins down to the brisket, and may instead have a bit of red on the upper-middle portion of the chest, with the white starting on their briskets.
