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There's also a multi-course menu at the 12-seat "Raw" tasting bar at the exhibition-style kitchen, where chefs prepare the meal omakase style.
There may be no more profound statement of purpose in Los Angeles restaurants at the moment than Tony Esnault's legumes de saison, a bowlful of beautifully turned vegetables — a dozen at least —steamed, roasted, sautéed, or left raw, tasting vibrantly of themselves, but combining into a fine, high pitch of season and place.
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"It has that raw taste," he said, with a look of intense concentration.
The principle is that the seasoning masks the raw taste of the meat.
Add soy sauce and salt and pepper and simmer, whisking frequently, until grits lose their raw taste, about 15 minutes.
During the last minute or so of cooking, add the garlic (this cooks the garlic just enough to remove its raw taste).
Add garlic, parsley and pepper flakes, and cook over medium heat until garlic loses its raw taste, 1 to 2 minutes.
The sweet-sour sauce had the raw taste imparted by wine or other alcoholic beverage added too late in the cooking for the alcohol to burn off.
Many sauces begin with a roux, a mixture of flour and fat that is cooked for a few minutes to eliminate the raw taste from the flour and to enable it to absorb a maximum amount of liquid.
It was on display on a long plate that held five raw tastes of the ocean, like branzino dyed purple by a bath in beet juice, and a sweet, firm langoustine with tart little bits of green apple.
Maybe it's time to step away and let her legacy simmer quietly at the back of the stove until the ingredients lose their raw taste and the flavors emerge in full.
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