This is one of the downsides of the European PDO and PGI (protected designation of origin and protected geographic indication) schemes, designed to protect the special, distinctive status of regional foodstuffs.
It's nothing new; parmesan has had Protected Designation of Origin status since 1996.
Chris Ranger, who runs Fal Oyster Ltd, has been cleared to claim PDO (protected designation of origin) status for his molluscs.
Though not always a guarantee of quality, PDO (protected designation of origin) and PGI (protected geographical indication) status should inspire some confidence.
Illustrative application concerned blends made by three main French mono-varietal virgin olive oils (Aglandau, Grossane and Salonenque) and benefiting from Protected Designation of Origin label.
Manchego is an EU protected designation of origin (AOC) product, which is respected within the bloc but not always further afield.
In Parma is run by an outfit called Food Roots – manned entirely, I suspect, by the animated, curly-haired chap hairdrying the customers with his enthusiasm – dedicated to PDO (protected designation of origin) food from small producers.
The Chinese decision represents a victory for President François Hollande, who negotiated the deal during a recent visit to Beijing, and for Champagne producers who jealously guard France's most prestigious appellation d'origine contrôlée, or protected designation of origin.
In October, after a decade-long legal battle in which Greece faced up to dairy giants like Germany, Denmark and France and their versions of white, brined cheese, the organization's European Court awarded Greek feta "protected designation of origin" status.
The scallop dredger which caused the damage was not operating illegally since the area had no protected designation.
"Not only is this site in Wales' premier national park, part of the airfield is a national nature reserve and right next to it is a special area of conservation, the most highly protected designation under European legislation," he said.
