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In these activities, predictions of wave heights and periods are of particular importance.
More accurate predictions of wave kinematics, wave forces, and body motions can be obtained, compared to linear model predictions for interactions involving large free-surface and body displacements.
For this purpose a semi-empirical model is developed, which combines an established single particle scattering model with predictions of wave interference for defined microstructure of the dispersion.
The locations of core sites and predictions of wave heights for a Level 2 tsunami and the 1854 Ansei-Tokai tsunami are shown (after Shizuoka Prefectural Government 2013; Kitamura and Kobayashi 2014a; Kitamura and Kawate 2015).
Some predictions of wave phenomena in track are also presented for comparison and good agreement between theory and experiment is found.
A Mw 9.0 earthquake (the 2011 Tohoku-oki earthquake) and a mega-tsunami with wave heights of 10 40 m struck the Pacific coast of the northeastern Japanese mainland on 11 March 2011, and far exceeded pre-disaster predictions of wave height.
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Therefore, an accurate prediction of wave parameters is considerably important.
Prediction of wave parameters is very important for planning, designing and operation of ocean structures.
The prediction of wave kinematics is a necessary basis for ocean engineering design.
Prediction of wave height is of great importance in marine and coastal engineering.
In recent years, machine learning approaches are being widely used for the prediction of wave heights.
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