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More important, all of it was served with the same thin, powerful sauce, made of lime juice, scallions, chili and garlic, with loads of allspice.
He does a first-class job with standbys like coq au vin, a sad old warhorse at too many restaurants but a real star at Brasserie 360, with a ripe, powerful sauce fragrant with red wine, bacon and mushrooms.
I wouldn't bother with tuna steak, for example, which beckoned enticingly from the main-course specials but which came to the table bland and overdone, redeemed only by a powerful sauce of lemon and brandy.
But I proceeded with my bigger plans for the remaining chicken: to add Vietnamese fish sauce, some sugar and even more garlic, ginger and chilies to the pan to make a powerful sauce.
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Sliced conch with deep-fried bean curd ($18) was determinedly bland, despite the application of a piquant and powerful shrimp sauce, while pork chops ($9) were swathed in an overpoweringly sweet sauce.
A special of sole came simply sauteed, a powerful lemon sauce served wisely on the side.
Melted with butter, and with garlic, they form a powerful dipping sauce for raw vegetables.
IN and around Rome, a simple but powerful tomato sauce spiked with garlic, chilies and mint is traditional with tripe.
The pig's trotter with horseradish yielded about a quarter-ounce of edible meat, lost in a powerful horseradish sauce, but sweetbread schnitzel turned out to be a pleasant surprise, gently crunchy outside, rich and creamy inside.
"Any powerful technology has sauce for the goose and the gander… It's just an extension of humanity," says Barlow.
This is a powerful, deeply flavored sauce built on long, slow cooking.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com