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The good news is that you can use the duck fat again, as long as you strain it through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any potato bits.
But then there's the first official course — cod roe layered with baccalà mousse, crispy potato bits, and caramelized onions, topped with a heap of Burgundy truffle shavings — and it is wickedly good.
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But the potato bits are flabby and send deep acid surges and heaves towards the back of my mouth.
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A herring degustation plate should start any meal at the restaurant, served with impossibly sweet boiled peanut potatoes, bits of crispy bread and some hard, salty Vasterbotten cheese.
A blandish crab chowder looks like a paste pot even if the taste is credible, the region's more typical base of tomatoes and broth swapped out for cream, soft potatoes, bits of bacon.
Inside, it was moist and soft; the exterior had become a thin crackly shell, like a potato chip, with cooked bits of cheese and ham on the edges.
Some cooks prefer a mash with coarse chunks of potato and bits of peel, but that is a different entity from the classic, gravy-loving American mash.
When he was young, crop yields were terrible, and of what grew, birds, mice and insects got more than his family, who lived primarily on corn, taro, sweet potato and bits of eel.
During a recent visit, Mr. Fera's orecchiette di tonno patate e melanzane presented Puglia's classic ear-shaped pasta in an olive-oil-infused mélange of tuna, golden potatoes and bits of eggplant cooked to custardy perfection.
Haworth also cooks his dish at a much lower heat than everyone else, but I find this leaves his potatoes a bit pallid and floppy, while Grigson starts off very hot, and then turns the oven down.
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Since I tried Ludwig back in 2017, I have been constantly using it in both editing and translation. Ever since, I suggest it to my translators at ProSciEditing.

Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com